Taste of L.A.: Where Restaurants & Theme Parks Collide

From Disneyland to Magic Mountain, die-hard thrill seekers may spend up to an hour in a line just for a three-minute adrenaline rush on a roller coaster.  While there are many food festivals on L.A.’s social calendar, Taste of L.A.’s “spread” is perhaps the most like a theme park for foodies, gourmands, fressers, cocktail connoisseurs, oenophiles and anybody else whose heart can be accessed by way of their stomachs.

As food enthusiasts know, the themes and structure of the “Taste” sets it apart from other festivals, allowing guests to pick and choose their indulgences. On the Saturday, day two of the annual circus of food on the Paramount Lot, hundreds of folks—like their theme park-going counterparts—paid entry fees and cheerfully stood in line, some of them staggering, in 100 degree heat in order to try a sample of something distinctive from those hip restaurants or food trucks that have been generating a buzz.  All told, most of the lines (including the uber popular Sushi Roku tuna hand rolls with a yummy wasabi/soy/truffle sauce) were generally quick, efficient and friendly.

Although I was hoping to try the Indian fare at Mayura, for example, I will instead plan to visit their restaurant as their massive line for a miniature sampler platter speaks volumes. Other restaurants, such as the new WestHollywood gastro pub State Social House were out of food less than halfway into their shift, which either tells me their food was either amazing or they still have not worked the kinks out of their formula (Chances are, it may be the former).

Between those bite-sized thrill rides (and some of them were quite a thrill), there were marquee “shows” featuring celebrity chefs and bartenders doing their “try this at home” demos (list here). Also, as in previous years, there were plenty of “souvenirs”— consumer product samplings for things that could be purchased at the local supermarket, wine shop or gourmet store, be they boxed, bottled or bagged. Alcohol aside, our favorite sweet was the Sheila G’s Brownie Brittle, sort of the love child of a graham cracker and a brownie that provides a mouthful of chocolatey satisfaction for far fewer calories---and they held up remarkably well in the blazing LA sun and humidity.

Here are my highlights—although there was a dearth of Valley-located places, many of these are places I would cheerfully leave my comfy Sherman Oaks block for, great places to meet my friends.

Field to Fork: Backyard BBQ in the Back Lot

Based on what I got to sample before the lines started stretching to epic proportions, I could honestly assess the experience as a true “end of summer pig-out” as pork emerged as the protein du jour at many of the restaurants and food shops. Pizza Antica, instead of a gooey cheese slice, featured bite-sized roasted pork sliders that stood up well in the heat. Pinches Tacos’ carnitas and chicken/mole tacos also got kudos from the crowds. Hot new Italian restaurant RivaBella (from the creators of the popular Boa Steakhouses), offered a delightful mash-up of lasagna, tortellini, Bolognese and prociutto. Other places serving up sensational smokiness in salad or appetizer form included Hudson House and Farm Shop. However the best bites were the ribs from The Curious Palate by day and Mohawk Bend (theirs were beef, but oh so smoky)—a remarkable feat given that ribs can dry out without the right amount of marinade and grill time.

Of course, if pig wasn’t your thing, there were a few very memorable alternatives offered by long-time local favorites and new hotspots.  Momed, a unique Beverly Hills Pan-Mediterranean/Middle Eastern establishment, wowed with duck shawarma and a couple of vegetarian spicy bites.  Fred62, (the Griffith Park forerunner of designer diner) doled out their signature Frito Pie, a chili-like concoction with the iconic corn chips, served right in the bag) Mr. Chow offered some spicy chicken and a tofu noodle salad, while Studio City favorite Sun Café Organic and Lyfe Kitchen had their awesome vegetarian offerings on hand.  While BLVD16 prepared a beautiful game meat dish that won raves, vegetarians could order the satisfying sides of kale and red rice. Likewise, you could enjoy branzino and/or signature kale Caesar salad from Esterel Restaurant at Sofitel Hotel Beverly Hills.

 

Night Market Mania

The planners of Taste of L.A. this year got the planning of the Flavors of L.A./ethnic food themed segment right by switching it to a post-sunset shift. The result was a gathering with a similar vibrancy and excitement to a night market in Bangkok, Seoul or Taipei. You had to love Bibigo’s food truck, festooned Gangnam Style with Psy masks (their veggie fried rice was pretty good, too!) However, what made this event so specific to our hometown was the integration of regional Mexican fare from Chichen Itza (shrimp in habanero sauce), Pincho’s Tacos and even the popular chain Chipotle.  There were even a few fine dining venues giving casual a shot—DOMA with its excellent tuna ceviche.  There were lots of fun experimental things as well, such as Italian/Korean drumettes from Superba Snack Bar that were, well, superb.  You also had Gottsui’s conversation-provoking Japanese “Pizza” and pad thai sliders from Ayara Thai.

 

Happy Endings and Nightcaps

In brief: In addition to those miraculous Brownie Brittle bags, you could partake in chocolate decadence at Sweets for the Soul, novelty cupcakes at the Cake Mamas (Salted Caramel Chocolate and Churro Cinnamon), McConnell’s homespun ice cream and macarons at Bagatelle. 

Libation highlights included fresh Shock Top Apple Wheat and Pumpkin brews (just in time for fall, even if the weather begged to differ), TYKU’s sake-based mojitos (a great drink for batching), Kooksoondang Brewing’s bracingly delicious grapefruit ICing rice wine beverage, Goose Island’s Chicago-hewn brews, Caorunn Gin’s fresh and simple fall cocktails and new bespoke flavors of organically produced, US-made gin and vodka from Crop and Farmer’s Gin. Not an alcohol consumer? You could still enjoy Ketsara’s cocktail-like sodas in nifty flavors such as Thai Tea, Coffee and Watermelon Ginger produced in Los Angeles.